Thirty-two years ago, on a remote unclimbed peak in the Pakistan Karakorum, a young climber fought his way up the final slopes to the summit. The mountain was the 6660m. Virgin Paiyu Peak conquered by an ambitious 20 year old Nazir Sabir followed by Maj. Manzoor.
This was the first time a major first ascent was made by Pakistani climbers, climbing for themselves and not as paid porters. It would also mark the beginning of an extraordinary career for Sabir who would go on to distinguish himself as Pakistan's most accomplished and celebrated high altitude mountaineer.
Over the next years he would make over 25 expeditions and in 1981, climbing with the Japanese, Eiho Otana, Nazir reached the summit of K2 via a new route on the West face and without supplementary oxygen. Short on daylight on the summit bid and in a daring display of strength and determination, they survived in an open bivouac at nearly 28,000 feet without stove or sleeping bags.
The following year he would summit both GII and Broad Peak, climbed in pure alpine style with Reinhold Messner and close friend Sher Khan and with his ascent of GI the next year he would become the only Pakistani to reach the top of 4 out of the 5 8000 m. peaks in Pakistan. In 1992 Nazir received the prestigious President's Medal for outstanding achievements in Mountain sport and then the Star of Distinction in 2000 when he became the first Pakistani to reach the summit of Mount Everest.
But Nazir's climbing is only half the story as he has dedicated himself to serving his community and climbers throughout his life. In the mid-80's, drawing on his knowledge and expertise of the high mountain areas, Nazir founded Nazir Sabir Expeditions, the premier trekking and climbing agency that would go on to organize and facilitate hundreds of successful expeditions from around the world.
Nazir has traveled extensively throughout Asia, Europe, Australia, and the Americas, lecturing on his amazing climbs and promoting sustainable tourism, conservation, and education in the mountain regions of Pakistan.
Nazir Sabir was recently awarded with Honorary Membership of the American Alpine Club.
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